Italian wine reviews (tasted through February 2017)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Reclaiming Its Throne
After years of challenges Vino Nobile is finally regaining its lofty reputation.
If you haven’t tried Vino Nobile di Montepulciano lately, you’re missing out on the return of an Italian classic. While it’s still a work in progress, the last few vintages have revealed a steady rise throughout the denomination of more polished, terroir-driven wines that boast aging potential and pedigree. And the best part? With few exceptions, Vino Nobile still costs way less than most other Tuscan wines at this quality level.
As the latest releases prove, Vino Nobile estates are finding their groove. Many producers have cut back on or abandoned Cabernet and Merlot and are returning to native grapes Canaiolo, Colorino and Mammolo to blend in with Sangiovese. Still others are using exclusively Sangiovese, known locally as Prugnolo Gentile. Better Sangiovese clones and more sustainable viticulture have had a big impact on quality while producers who have stepped back from less invasive cellar techniques are generating wines with more character and elegance.
Read the article: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Reclaiming Its Throne
Check out my Vino Nobile di Montepulciano reviews
Italian wine reviews (tasted through December 2016)
Tenuta San Guido 2013 Bolgheri Sassicaia 98 Points Cellar Selection
Castello dei Rampolla 2012 Vigna d’Alceo (Toscana) 95 Points Cellar Selection
Isole e Olena 2012 Cepparello Sangiovese (Toscana) 95 Points Cellar Selection
2012 Brunello: a return to finesse and age-worthy structure
If you love wines with elegance, fragrance and longevity, then you’ll love the just-released 2012 Brunellos. And even though I’m one of the biggest critics of the Consorzio’s Brunello vintage classifications (I find most vintages have been overrated), when it comes to 2012’s five-star rating, I completely I agree.
Defying the intense heat of the growing season, many 2012s have the vibrancy usually found in cooler vintages. They boast juicy red berry fruit, noble tannins and impeccable balance that will allow them to age well for years. Out of the 140 Brunello 2012s I tasted so far, I rated 88 wines 90 points or more, with 20 of these getting 94 points or higher. I was pleasantly surprised to see a return to finesse, enticing aromas and generally lower alcohol levels when compared to other recent releases.
The 2012s even have more consistent quality across the denomination than the highly acclaimed 2010s. The latter were a mixed bag divided between majestic wines boasting structure and finesse, and subpar wines marred by low acidity, cooked fruit and alcohol of 15% abv or more.
Quality is more uniform in 2012, but in terms of weather, 2012 was an undeniably difficult year. Unstable conditions included a cold, wet winter and an extremely hot, dry summer marked by late rains. But the extended heat wave was gentler on the grapes than the turbulent temperature changes of other past vintages.
Read more here: 2012 Brunello: a return to finesse and age-worthy structure
Here you find the full reviews: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino reviews by Kerin O’Keefe
Sicily: wine-lover’s paradise
Sunny Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, sits just off the tip of the boot-shaped peninsula of Italy. Dotted with ancient Greek temples and Norman cathedrals built by former invaders, the island has a rich history and multifaceted cultural legacy.
It also boasts miles of pristine beaches, breathtaking scenery and the highest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna.
On top of those wonders, Sicily makes fantastic wines from native and international grapes. It produces everything from full-bodied reds to vibrant, mineral-driven whites. Pair them with the fantastic local cuisine, and you understand why this is a wine-lover’s paradise.
Read the article: Sicily: wine-lover’s paradise
Italian wine reviews (tasted through November 2016)
Proprietà Sperino 2011 Lessona, 96 Points, Cellar Selection
Arpepe 2007 Sassella Vigna Regina Riserva Valtellina Superiore, 96 Points, Cellar Selection
Colombera & Garella 2013 Lessona, 96 Points, Editors’ Choice
Gaja 2013 Barbaresco, 96 Points, Cellar Selection
Le Piane 2009 Boca, 95 Points, Editors’ Choice
Gaja 2013 Costa Russi Barbaresco, 95 Points, Cellar Selection
Nino Negri 2013 5 Stelle Sforzato di Valtellina, 95 Points, Cellar Selection
Germano Ettore 2012 Prapò Barolo, 94 Points
Germano Ettore 2010 Lazzarito Riserva Barolo, 94 Points, Cellar Selection
The Terroir-Driven Food of Italy
Terroir isn’t just about wine. Chefs in Italy are looking local for their ingredients, from Caffè Cibrèo in Florence to Osteria Disguido in Piedmont.
“Terroir-driven wine” has become synonymous with a high-quality product loaded with the personality of the place (or soil) in which it’s made/grown. But in Italy, terroir is also a key concept behind much of the country’s best cuisine.
Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, winemakers focused efforts on new techniques and cellar technology to improve their wines. Since then, producers have turned their focus to the vineyards. How and where grapes are grown are now seen as the most important factors in quality winemaking.
The same emphasis on terroir can be said for today’s best Italian cuisine. It starts with select ingredients from distinct areas of the country.
Read the article: The Terroir-Driven Dishes of Italy
The Beauty of Barbaresco
One of Italy’s greatest wines is finally getting the attention it deserves. We take you through the vintages, the communes and the bottles you need to buy.
Made with 100% native grape Nebbiolo, you’ve probably heard that Barbaresco is one of Italy’s greatest wines. Yet for many years, it’s also been Italy’s most famous unknown red: even though fine wine lovers had heard of it, until recently, many passed it up for Barolo, its larger, more renowned neighbor (also made entirely with Nebbiolo). But thanks to a new generation of winemakers embracing more natural farming methods that have led to even higher quality, and the denomination’s unique micro-climate that encourages freshness and balance even in the hottest vintages, wine lovers are discovering that Barbaresco is a world-class wine in its own right. And the recent, widespread fascination with Nebbiolo and Piedmont has further helped shine a light on the denomination.
Read the article: The Beauty of Barbaresco
Producers Strike Down Piemonte Nebbiolo DOC
After a meeting between producers and their consortia of the Piedmont region that lasted for more than four hours yesterday (September 12), a vote came out against creating a new wine, Piemonte Nebbiolo DOC.
As previously reported in a column on August 5, the proposal—put forward by the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato—would have encouraged producers in growing zones throughout the region to invest heavily in Nebbiolo.
Read the article: Producers Strike Down Piemonte Nebbiolo DOC